Introduction:
Throughout the interim of one's creative journey, an artist naturally develops a desire to learn new techniques and challenge their abilities in a particular craft. The craving to experiment with a different style or approach is a necessary step that separates the acceptable from the exceptional.
As a woodworker, hand cut dovetails are one of the most impressive skills that any builder can learn. This seemingly simple joint requires excessive patience, tremendous precision, and a steady demeanor. If done correctly, this particular piece looks extremely appealing and the vast amount of intricacy displays a level of elegance that can be appreciated by any viewer.
Being a fine woodworker has always pushed me towards learning this skill and this year I finally got a chance to take on the challenge. Throughout my various attempts, I finally figured out the "do's and don't's" to this process and wanted to share my newfound knowledge to anybody who wants to add this skill to their carpentry arsenal. Please join me below, as I document my process on my own through dovetail construction!
What You Will Need:
Though tons of trial and error, I was finally able to list all the necessary tools needed to commence this process.
*All links to my personal tools can be found at the end of this post!
Wood Stock
In order to begin, a builder must have 2 workpieces. The pieces do not have to be the same dimensions, but they do have to be perpendicular to each other. This will allow for precise marking and will result in a joint that is a perfect 90° angle.
How to make each piece square: by using a miter saw set to 90° or a table saw with an accurate 90° table saw push sled, cut off a small portion of stock in order to create perpendicular edges.
Step 1: Marking with a Marking Gauge
What you need: Tail board, Pin Board, Marking Gauge
To make this joint, we begin by choosing and marking our boards. For those who are unfamiliar with this term, the image below clearly displays all the parts of your through dovetail build.
With a marking gauge in hand, set the distance between the blade and the gauge face, equal to the thickness of the pin board. Place the gauge face on the edge of the tail workpiece and ride the blade along all 4 faces. Without changing the marking gauge settings, repeat this process on the pin board, but now only mark on the 2 larger faces sides.
Step 2: Marking Tails
What you need: Tail board, Spring Dividers, Marking Knife, Combination Square, Moxon Vise
Place your tail board in the Moxon Vise and open your pair of spring dividers up to 1/4''. gently place one leg at the left edge of the piece and make a firm mark on the workpiece with the other leg. Repeat this on the far right edge. These are your half pins.
To make the full pin, we must first decide how many tails we want in our project. In my example, I am making 2 tails, but this same technique can be used for any amount; just be sure to adjust accordingly.
Place one leg into the half pin hole and walk the legs along the top. Since I am doing 2 pins, I will gently walk my dividers along the top for two spaces. If you want 3 tails, for example, then gently walk my dividers along the top for three spaces.
To determine how large the pins in the middle will be, we walk the dividers along the top until the distance between the last leg and last half pin mark is our desired full pin length. Once the final distance is settled, firmly press and walk the dividers into the wood. Repeat on the opposite side.
Once you have marked all your necessary measurements, place your marking knife into each of the holes and slide the combination square to the knife. Firmly hold the combination square in place and press the knife into the fibers of the wood to make a straight line. We have just made the locations. for our tails.
*Tip* As a beginner it is always smart to mark the areas that you will be removing.
Step 3: Cutting Tails
What you need: Tail board, Push Saw/Pull Saw, Fret Saw, Moxon Vise
With the tail board still in the vise, grab your push saw and the Katz-Moses Jig (if your personal preference is to use a pull saw, you are more than welcome to do so). Align the teeth 1mm away from the pre-marked lines and slide the tail side of the jig toward the saw face. Once the magnets in the jig are attached to the saw, begin sawing in long strokes towards the marking gauge line. Repeat on all lines.
To remove the middle areas, grab your fret saw and slide the blade into the saw cuts. Begin cutting laterally from tail to tail. Be sure to be close to, but not on the marking gauge line.
To remove the waste from the shoulders, clamp the board on its side and place the saw teeth into the shoulder lines. Use the 90° side of the jig to cut off each of the shoulders. You should now have distinguishable tails.
*Tip* It is ok to be really excited; I was!
Step 4: Chiseling Tails
What you need: Tail board, Clamps, Chisels, Strop, Woodworking Mallet
After securely clamping your tail board to the workbench, grab a chisel and a mallet, to begin chiseling away the excess material. Start by getting rid of about half the thickness of waste, on the show side first; then flip the workpiece over and chisel away the remaining waste. Be sure to only chisel in small increments to decrease the risk of a gap. Be sure to have safety goggles on, as chunks may fly out towards your face. Keep taking away waste until you reach the marking gauge lines.
Consistently sharpen your chisels and use a leather strop to maximize the precision of a cut. Taking your time is imperative in this situation.
*Tip* Be sure not to bruise any front faces of the tails
With all waste chiseled away, it is time to move onto the pin board.
Step 5: Marking Pins
What you need: Pin board, Tail Board, Marking Knife, Chisels
This is perhaps the most important level in the process.
Many people, myself included, fail
to accurately mark the locations the pins, therefore, creating an uneven and unstable joint. Any wrong movement may also conclude in a gap between the tails and pins. Be sure to exercise plenty of patience when marking!
*Tip* Take your tail board and flip it upside down. Line up your chisel a few millimeters from the marking gauge line and make a slight angle downward until you hit the line. Doing so will make a V-groove; which will allow for your tails to lock into the edge of the pin board, thus, making this process much more accurate and repeatable.
To start grab your pin board and clamp it vertically to a work surface. Take your tail board and line up the V-groove into the face of the vertical pin board. Once the two boards are held in a desirable location, firmly press the tail board down, and begin marking the tails with the marking knife.
Step 6: Cutting Pins
What you need: Pin board, Tail Board, Marking Knife, Chisels
Similar to how the tails were cut, align the teeth of the saw, slightly offset from the pre-marked lines. You want to be close to, but not on the lines exactly; this will ensure a tight fit. Once your saw is properly positioned, slide the pin side of the jig toward the saw face and begin sawing in long strokes towards the marking gauge line. Repeat on all lines.
To remove the middle areas, grab your fret saw and slide the blade into the saw cuts. Begin cutting laterally from each pin. Be sure to cut close to, but not on the marking gauge line. You should now have distinguishable recesses.
Step 7: Chiseling Pins
What you need: Tail board, Moxon Vise, Chisels, Strop
Begin chiseling away the excess material about half of the thickness on the show side first, then flip the workpiece over and chisel away the remaining waste. Be sure not to chisel in large chunks here. Only chisel in small increments to decrease the risk of a gap. Keep taking away waste until you reach the marking gauge lines. Chisel straight down at 90 degrees to ensure a flush surface that will be able to accept the tails. Be sure to sharpen your chisels and use a leather strop to maximize the precision of a cut. Taking your time is imperative in this situation.
With all waste chiseled away, it is time to fit both workpieces and complete the joint.
Step 8: Dry-Fitting the Joint
What you need: Tail board, Pin Board, Moxon Vise, Chisels, Woodworking Mallet
Now is the most anticipated, but most anxious level of the process. With the pin board still in the moxon vise, position the tail board into the proper location among the pins and begin hammering down the tails with a woodworking mallet. If properly executed, the joint should fit tightly with minimal gaps or wiggle room.
However, without the proper amount of experience, it is very difficult to achieve a comfortably fitted joint on your first build. Therefore, if the tails do not seem to fit into the recess comfortably, begin to chisel the pins back in extremely small increments until the tails are accepted into the joint. It is best to be tight, rather than loose, so be sure not to take off too much stock. When enough waste has been removed, hammer the tails into the pins until a sturdy joint is achieved.
Once the tails and pins are appropriately fitted, it is finally time to add some glue!
Step 9: Completing the Joint
What you need: Tail board, Pin Board, Moxon Vise, Glue, Woodworking Mallet
With the pin board still in the moxon vise, place very small amounts of glue into the pin board, and position the tails into the proper location among the pins. Begin hammering down the tails with a woodworking mallet, until the joint fits tightly together. There should be no gaps.
*Tip* If any gaps are present in your work, grab some sawdust that was previously saved and mix it with glue. Rub the mixture into any area that needs to be sealed, then wipe excess away with a damp cloth.
With everything sealed up, it is now safe to say that you have completed your first successful dovetail joint!
Conclusion:
Since this product is handcrafted, there will undoubtably be mistakes on your first couple of builds. However, the way in which we fix our mistakes is one way a creator can really set themselves apart from others.
As previously stated, a dedicated artist will instinctively develop a desire to expand their knowledge and push the bounds of their creativity to new levels. Whether it be a woodworker making dovetails or a musician creating a brilliant symphony, one must not give up in the pursuit of new insight. As in all of life, failure will be encountered, but it is this failure that is laced with new moments of opportunity for your mind and imagination.
Thank you all for taking the time to read my latest instructional blog. Although this project is potentially frustrating, I truly do implore you to have fun and give this project a shot!
"Who knows, you start pretending to have fun, you might even have a little by accident."
- Alfred Pennyworth
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